Due to the remote nature of the peak, climbing Mount Aspiring requires an expedition of 5 days.
For visitors to New Zealand looking to sample mountaineering, this is the must do ascent.
Classic New Zealand Mountaineering
Tititea / Mount Aspiring Climb
Tititea / Mount Aspiring (3033m) is one of the Southern Alps / Ka Tiritiri o te Moana most aesthetic and classic peaks. The only 3000m peak outside of the Aoraki/Mount Cook and Westland National Parks, and its prominence makes it visible from many areas around Lake Wanaka. It offers multiple classic routes and is a popular alpine climb and many aspiring mountaineers’ first 3000m summit from a base at Colin Todd or French Ridge Huts.
Colin Todd Hut
New Zealand Alpine Club Colin Todd Hut is a small hut. It is equipped with 12 bunks, a cooking bench and mattresses.
The full Mount Aspiring experience includes the walk-out via the Matukituki Valley. Early in the season, the route ascends over Quarterdeck Pass and down French Ridge, breaking the journey at French Ridge or Aspiring Huts. Later, when this route becomes unfeasible, the Bevan Col route is taken.
Preparation
The best preparation for novice mountaineers is to join one of our Summer Mountaineering Courses or Mount Aspiring Preparation Course. These courses introduce a range of mountaineering skills and your instructor will be able to recommend what further fitness or technical training may be required to have the best chance of success on the ascent.
For further advice on training and fitness preparation for Mount Aspiring, check out our Knowledge Base.
1
Day
The most common Mount Aspiring itinerary involves flying from the Matukituki Valley to Bevan Col. From here it is 1.5 to 2 hours travel across the Bonar Glacier to Colin Todd Hut deep in the Mount Aspiring National Park Wilderness area.
2
Day
The second day can be used for more training or a warm-up climb of Rolling Pin.
3
Day
Summit attempt. From the hut, most routes take between 9 to 15 hours return and involve 1200m of ascent and descent.
4–5
Days
Walk out over the 4th and 5th days via French Ridge or Bevan Col and the West Matukituki Valley. This highly recommended journey provides a more transitioned return to reality as you descend from the alpine zone, through sub-alpine scrub and beech forest to the paddocks of the Matukituki Valley and its grazing cattle.
The Ramp
During the early summer season during November and December, the normal route up Mount Aspiring is the North West Ridge via The Ramp. This is accessed by a 1-2 hour walk up the glacier from Colin Todd Hut. The crux involves 8 – 9 pitches of 45 to 50 degree snow climbing. Above this, the easier upper ridge gains the summit in around 2 hours.
South-West Ridge
During the early season, and for those with previous snow or ice experience, the classic South West Ridge route offers a direct and aesthetic route to the summit. The lower ridge, depending on the snow conditions, involves sustained snow climbing with a short technical crux high on the mountain up the ice couloir. This route is best enjoyed from a bivi at the bottom of the ridge. The usual descent is via the Ramp from where it is possible to continue to French Ridge Hut.
Full North West Ridge
From January to April, access to the mountain from the Bonar Glacier becomes more difficult and the Full North West Ridge is followed the whole way from Colin Todd Hut. The majority of this route provides a fun and exposed rock scramble requiring climbers to have good balance and footwork and recent rock climbing experience up to Aus/NZ grade 12 or British ‘Severe’.
Wanaka Mountain Guides utilises a small team of established, local, NZ-certified guides. Our Mount Aspiring guides have decades of experience operating in the Aspiring National Park and throughout the Southern Alps.
Equipment
All the technical equipment can be borrowed from us. It is also possible to hire boots and other equipment that may be required.
Fitness
Excellent fitness includes being able to ascend 1000m in 3 hours and trek up to 20km in a day over rough ground.
After the summit day, the walk-out involves another 1000m+ of descent down technical terrain and a 20km walk out down the valley with full packs (10-15kg).
Technical Difficulty
We recommend some cramponing and basic ropework experience.
Further training in all the technical skills can be covered during the first few days of the ascent.
For those wishing to gain more mountaineering experience, the trip can be extended for a few days to include further instruction in preparation for the ascent.
For climbs of the South West Ridge, climbers should have ice climbing experience up to Water Ice grade 3. We require climbers to have some recent ice climbing experience and recommend doing some winter climbing the season before in preparation.
For the mid to late-season ascents of the Full North West Ridge, recent rock climbing experience up to Aus/NZ grade 12 or British ‘Severe’ is recommended.
Availability
Can't make these dates. Get in touch or register your interest below to arrange private dates November to April.
Pricing
Inclusions & Exclusions
Includes: GST, NZMGA certified guide, compliance costs, mountain food, ground transport from Wanaka, accommodation during the trip in mountain huts or our Kea Lodge, and technical equipment.
The helicopter flight into Bevan Col is $1000 – $1500 with Aspiring Helicopters depending on if it is possible to share with other parties. This is subject to change by the helicopter company.
Get in touch to discuss walk-in/out options.
‘First class guide with excellent skills with safety being the priority. However, even his cooking was good! :-)… overall had an amazing adventure! [Our guide] managed all aspects of our safety efficiently and professionally. It was a truly great experience! Tim did a first-class job guiding us with his in-depth knowledge of the mountain. He was efficient, professional, and helpful with all aspects of the trip. Very safety conscious and very patient given I was a bit slow at times! It was a really fun and memorable adventure. I would thoroughly recommend.’
— — Murray, Mount Aspiring Climb
