Classic New Zealand Mountaineering
Four Day Ascents
Four day ascents offer the opportunity for short alpine trips and summits. There are lots of objectives within the Mount Aspiring National Park and the eastern or western sides of the Aoraki/Mount Cook and Westland National Parks. With options for walk-in and out expeditions and helicopter access, it is possible to be flexible and choose the best venue based on the weather forecast and conditions at the time variety of classic routes, and a lifetime of adventures.
Mount Brewster (2515m)
The Brewster Glacier has a steep and direct approach through beech forest from the Haast highway. Mount Brewster is an alpine ascent that can be accomplished in a few days and great progression before attempting more challenging climbs in the Southern Alps.
Pikirakatahi / Mount Earnslaw (2819m)
The highest peak of the Wakatipu basin. This provides a big elevation gain from the Rees Valley. Nights can be spent at the Kea Basin bivi rock or Esquilant Bivi above Wright Col. From here it is a relatively short climb to the summit. From December onward, the north face of the east peak is generally snow-free and gives a fun rocky scramble to the summit with a short crux.
Darrans Mountaineering
From January onwards we also offer four-day expeditions in the Darrans Mountains of Fiordland. Objectives include Mitre Peak, MacPhearson Talbot Traverse, Moirs Mate, and Mount Madeline.
Four Day Ascents with Helicopter Access
Lendenfeld Peak (3192m)
Accessed from Pioneer Hut on the Fox Glacier. The standard route ascends to Marcel Col on the Main Divide requiring a few snow pitches to the summit. The Hamilton Berry rib provides a more challenging ascent with excellent rock climbing and a mixed ridge.
Mount Dixon (3019m)
Mount Dixon is an easily accessible 3000m peak that is less than one hour walk from Plateau Hut. The classic East Ridge provides the standard ascent route at about grade 2. The classic South Ridge is a longer and harder alternative with steep snow climbing, interesting mixed gully and ridge climbing, and provides a satisfying traverse with a descent of the East Ridge.
Mitre Peak (1692m)
One of the most recognisable of New Zealand’s peaks, Mitre Peak rising out from Milford Sound is a popular summer scramble with jaw-dropping exposure down to the fiord below. Best enjoyed with a bivi on the shoulder to enjoy being alone in the sound.
Mount Hamilton (3025m)
In the Malte Brun range between the Haupapa / Tasman and Murchison glaciers, Mount Hamilton is a less traveled but excellent first 3000m peak from a base camp on the Darwin Glacier.
Mount Walter (2095m) and Mount Green (2837m)
Just shy of 3000m, these peaks are prominent from the upper Tasman / Haupapa Glacier. Accessed from Tasman Saddle Hut, and separated by a high plateau, it is possible to climb one or both of these peaks via a lower aesthetic snow arete.
Elie Du Beaumont (3109m)
The northern-most 3000-metre peak in the Southern Alps / Ka Tiritiri O Te Moana, it is also accessed from Tasman Saddle Hut. The route is a popular ski but the crevasses of the Anna Glacier can get cut off later in the season.
The Minarets (3031m)
The twin peaks of the Minarets are climbed from Centennial Hut on the Franz Josef Glacier / K? Roimata o Hine Hukatere. The West Face offers a steep but straightforward ascent and is an excellent first 3000m summit. High on the main divide, that extends from Elie Du Beaumont to Aoraki / Mount Cook.
Douglas Peak (3077m)
The South Face of Douglas Peak is one of the Southern Alps most aspired to alpine ice climbs. Based out of Pioneer Hut the peak is one of the most dominant peaks of the Fox Glacier / Te Moeka o Tuawe. The route has a crux of water ice grade 3 and is either descended by abseil or by traversing over the peak.
