Mount Moir
Approach
From Homer Saddle. the route traverses the ridge to Moir. The main difficulty is early on when an exposed traverse, protected by some bolts and a fixed line.
At the end of the ridge is a good, flat bivi site.
Above the bivi platform, the route ascents the easiest angled rock on the left of the face. The climbing is slabbly and insecure so best in approach shoes or rock shoes. There are double ring bolt belays every 30m that can be used for 3 abseils on the descent.
Equipment
Turner’s bivi provides reliable shelter even in heavy rain. Although climbers should be prepared for all conditions in the NZ mountains, in mid to late season mild temperatures allow a lightweight approach. There are multiple stream crossings in the Tutoko valley and Leader Creek so approach shoes will help keep boots dry. A few cams and slings are useful to protect the rock steps and crevasse rescue equipment including ice screw and snow stake are required for crossing the glacier. Do not rely on aged insitu slings and in any doubt replace with your own.
For guided ascents of Mount Moir, other mountaineering objectives in the Darrans, four day ascents, or other classic peaks of New Zealand, visit wanakamountainguides.co.nz.
