Summer Mountaineering Crevasse Rescue
Self-extraction
The victim of a roped crevasse fall may end up dangling in space or land on a snowbridge. If uninjured and once the team members on the surface have secured themselves, the victim may be able to climb out with a belay from above, get lowered down to a snow bridge and climb out on belay or extract themselves by ascending the rope using prusiks (that may or may not have been pre-rigged).
Snow anchors
In most situations, an anchor will need to be built, initially so that the rescuer can safely approach the edge of the crevasse to assess the situation. During the winter and spring seasons, ski tourers are likely to encounter soft snow on the surface of the glacier. In mid winter and immediately after fresh snowfall it may be dry snow. Later in the spring season, particularly after rain or a number of melt freeze cycles , the snow will likely be wet.
In soft snow, the strongest possible anchors are created by placing an object with the biggest surface area as possible, as deep as possible. In the ski touring context, skis are the most obvious solution in a T-slot. Two skis should be placed with bases facing each other or using skins or some other padding to protect the sling from getting damaged on the edges if using one ski and with a sling hitched around the midpoint of the ski for an attachment. Other options include burying backpacks, stuff sacks filled with snow.
Preparing the lip
Whenever approaching the edge, the rescuer should be attached to the anchor and protected from falling into the crevasse. Place a prusik around the anchor rope, extended if required using a personal anchor system, and keep it tight as the edge is approached. Once at the edge, the rescuer will be able to re-establish communication with their partner and assess the situation.
Hauling
In the unlikely event that the victim is incapacitated to the extent that they can’’’’?t clip themselves into the rescue rope that is sent down to them, the rescuer will have to first abseil down, attach the victim and then climb or prusik out – a time consuming and complicated procedure.